Saturday, 21 June 2014

Janglebox

A few people have asked for this.  It's pretty obvious what it's based on but I definitely think it's worth a build even if you already have a Dyna Comp or Keeley (etc) type compressor.  The tone switch does give you a lot of variation and I must say I was impressed by the demo vid.

Info about the original:

The original JangleBox compressor/sustainer is the pedal that captured the clean, bright ringing chime popularized by the Beatles, enhanced by the Byrds, and integrated into the sonic palettes of so many contemporary groups.

Ten years and thousands of satisfied customers later, there was no reason to reinvent the wheel, but we did add some subtle tweaks that make this unique pedal even better: a more stable IC chip, a more standardized power polarity and an enclosure that sits a bit closer to your pedal board.


Best of all, we brought the JangleBox home. Handmade in the USA once again, this simple plug-in/play compression pedal creates a bold sustain that will give your Ric, Tele, Gretsch, Strat — whatever the guitar — remarkable presence. Unlike pedals that clip or distort the original signal, the JangleBox expands the compression “sweet spot” to maintain a clean, even tone, with true bypass.

Compact and powerful, the JangleBox is ruggedly constructed for demanding pros and aspiring artists alike. Whether you’re looking to get that Beatles/Byrds chime and jangle, never-ending slide sustain, Nashville “squish,” or just a big, clean boost, the JangleBox delivers the distinctive compression edge.






48 comments:

  1. Sweet! I have all the parts for this except the IC.

    I think this should sound pretty good with my rickenbacker and ac30 theoretically

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    1. If you have a Rick and an AC30, I wouldn't think you'd need much help to get a Beatles/Byrds sound ;-)

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  2. Hm, I thought that all Janglebox did was turn that 1n cap that was connected to pin 6 of IC off the circuit, thus bringing up more highs. Am I wrong? Were did you get schematic for that one Mark?

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  3. Plus, I think it's slightly wrong. Found the schematic at FSB and it looks like you've got that 470p cap wrong. Instead of base, it's going to collector and hence not connecting to pin 6. That;s what left me wondering where the hell is that cap :D oh, it's tjdracz BTW, don't know how to change my username, d'oh!

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    1. Yes it is base, I had to tweak the positioning of the 470p, 8K2 and 10M to get them to fit in without needing an extra column so I've ended up going to the wrong transistor pin

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  4. Excitedly built this up this afternoon. Last thing to do as always - fit th chip in the socket...
    Noooo! empty tube of CA3080s.
    Oh well, should get it working Tuesday or Wednesday when some more arrive!

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    1. That's why I had to stock up so much, I really hated the idea of wanting to build something and find the cupboard bare. Although I've probably taken it all a bit far now! :o)

      Did you notice the 470p should be connected to the base rather than collector?

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    2. Not working I'm afraid. (Yes I've altered the 470p cap.) Attack works as a volume control, and the bright setting sounds the same as flat. All sounds dull and lifeless.

      Double checked all my components and placements, and everything looks ok.
      I'm geeting some odd voltages, so I'll list them:

      Q1: E - 1.89v
      B - 2.28
      C - 8.9

      Q2: E - 2.5
      B - 2.9
      C - 6.4

      Q3: E- 0.0
      B - 0.0
      C - 7.6

      Q4: E - 0.0
      B - 0.0
      C - 7.9

      Q5: E - 7.8
      B - 7.9
      C - 8.9

      Any ideas?

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    3. I've just noticed an error. I used the Dyna Comp as a template for this and as such skimmed over certain parts which looked to be identical, assuming that was the case. But on closer examination the 2u2 cap from Q1 emitter actually goes to the non inverting input rather than inverting in the Dyna Comp. To fix that put a cut between the trimmer and the top of the 2u2 and just take a bit of wire from the top of the 2u2 to that free hole next to pin 3. See if that fixes it and I'll keep checking it over in the meantime.

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    4. Tag it.
      That's done the trick, now it sounds awesome! I have a Visualsound Route 66 (that I love) to compare it to, and it ticks my boxes.

      I'm one of those guys that like their compressors hot and greasy, I've never heard a "transparent" compressor that i like.

      Thanks for the help again Mark.

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    5. Awesome, thanks for verifying matey. I'll post the re-jigged version now

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    6. The "warm/flat/bright" switch works really well - the warm setting is suprisingly lush.

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    7. Yes I thought it sounded really nice in the clip

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    8. I'm lucky enough to have a Rickenbacker 12 string in at the moment for a set up. This pedal makes it sound God-like through my Trace Elliot Velocette!
      I'm more than happy with this one, and subtlely different from either a Dyna Comp or a Ross. It's like fairy dust - sprinkled sparkle, caressed by angels.

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    9. Beaker I have the Visual Sound route 66 too and I just built the Keeley 4 knob to try to replace it to save some room on my board and was pretty disappointed. Route 66 adds a certain something so maybe I don't like transparent either. Looks like I'm going to have to give this one a shot!

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    10. Hello.
      Would this benefit from an 18v charge pump or not?
      Jeff

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    12. There's nothing about voltage mentioned on the manufacturers website that I could see, but the ICs can take it so as long as you've used appropriately rated capacitors then it's always worth a try. This is one of the reasons I really recommend people build a charge pump into a small standalone box with just a 9V and 18V out DC socket. It means you can put it in line with any effect just to see what you think. You'll never damage anything as long as you check the IC and cap ratings.

      This is a modded Dyna Comp too, just like the Keeley so they will definitely have similarities even with their respective mods.

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  5. Did anyone find any use for the trimmer? Don't know what i'm supposed to be calibrating here. No audibly perceivable difference when tweaking so I've left the trimmer at 12 o'clock.

    This is an absolutely amazing compressor by the way, everyone who has tried it fricken loves it.

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    1. The trimmer balances the bias currents of the OTA inputs and dead centre would be the correct setting. If it is imbalanced you may find some settings are noisier. I don't really see the point in using a trimmer at all, two resistors would do the job perfectly

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    2. Whoops i didn't see this reply, thanks Mark. I just went back on here to ask a question because i have made another one of these and I'm getting a very faint flabby sound. Trimmer all the wqay clockwise gives me the most sound, but its literally just like the signal is just cracking through or something. Attack works, but it reduces these sounds to nothing when hit hard, but really quiet playing somewhat produces a nearly clean sound.

      My voltages:

      Q1
      e) 0
      b) 0.2
      c) 8.09

      Q2
      c) 8.08
      b) 3.91 (took a few seconds to drop down from about 6V)
      e) 6.75 (also took time to steady)

      Q3
      c) 3.91
      b) 0
      e) 0

      Q4
      c) 3.91
      b) 0
      e) 0

      Q5
      e) 1.67
      b) 1.85
      c) 6.33

      I have avoided bothering you for troubleshooting help at all costs, but this one is just not coming to life. I have made 4 of these before. I changed what i thought was a faulty electrolytic, replaced the trannies and the IC, no go.

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  6. Solving the problem when trouble shooting for hours is like waking up from a bad dream and realising you didn't go to school naked. Best feeling. I mistakenly had put a 3k3 instead of 33k near the top left, completely threw the whole thing out, and sometimes the red strip on resistors look brown so it took forever to realise.

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  7. I have Many noiser in bright positiom and max compresión , someone idea? Thsnks you

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  8. I put this together a few days ago and gigged with it last night. First the substitutions and there are many!!

    Attack became a 500K and output 100K
    The trimmer was replaced with two 470r resistors tied together for the wiper point.
    the 3080 was replaced for a 13700 on a daughterboard with fly wires to the 3080 as per Marks conversion board found here http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/emma-transmorgrifier.html
    All 5088s replaced with BC549C

    At max attack it seriously pumps! Almost like the Slow Gear but with the initial pick attack before the OTA clamps down. The Release time is fixed and quite slow. But bear in mind I've used twice the stated value for this pot.

    Theres plenty of output even at max squish so a 100K volume pot is plenty in my setup.

    At more useable positions this comp really sings! The tone switch is very useable although the Up position is a bit too dark for me so I'll look into replacing its cap.

    The Bright position the great! Country twang no matter what guitar you use. Yes, at Max comp in the bright position there is some background noise...but thats to be expected due to whats going on so I wouldn't worry too much about it.

    Last night I tried it on some funk tunes and it worked best with medium attack on the centre position. Really made the string scratch stand out. Very authentic sound.

    All in all.....I'm very pleased and once again cheers to Mark, Miro and all who comment.

    Ciaran

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  9. I'm feeling silly.. I had built this before but made a lot of subs and it didn't sound right. Now I just did a total rebuild and it still isn't working :P With the volume all the way up I can very very faintly hear the compressed signal through my amp so it seems to be working but I borked it again somewhere. Probably a cold joint or maybe I missed a joint. Hard to figure out where though. Audio probe time!

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  10. Anyone use a 91K resistor for this? I'm not able to find 92k resistors :(

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    1. omg... Didn't think of wiring in Series..... sorry =X

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    2. Or look up 'parallel resistor calculator', that could also be an option.

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  11. With my audio probe I'm getting a clean signal from pins 2 and 3. When I probe pin 6, I get the signal, but it's crackly and choppy. The attack knob doesn't do anything.

    I'm getting 5.3v for both pins 2 and 3.

    Getting 7.3v for q1

    I didn't bother measuring the other resistors because it seems like the issue is happening before the IC, so thought either way I'd get incorrect voltages for the other trannies.

    One last clue, to get a signal out of the pedal I have to attack my strings hard!

    Any help is much appreciated!

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    1. ***I didn't bother measuring the other transistors...

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  12. For those having issues, have you tried switching the IC? I haven't, but I ordered a NT996 and am going to try. I had a CA3080... E.... inside, but not 100% sure.

    It's been sitting on my work bench for months, but am going to give that shot.

    Will post what I find!

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    1. Switching out to an NT996 didn't do it for me :'(

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    2. Hi Jonathan, did you have any success? I'm trying audio probe. I can get signal from Switch 1, but seem to lose it after that. Not sure where the signal goes after that? Any advice please?

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    3. Hi there, just wondering if anyone might be able to provide some clues please?

      P1 0
      P2 2.89
      P3 2.89
      P4 0
      P5 0.64
      P6 0.62
      P7 9.35
      P8 0

      Q1 E 1.86, B 2.24, C 9.35
      Q2 E 0.11, B 0.62, C 9.22
      Q3 E 0, B 0 C 8.4
      Q4 E 0, B 0, C 8.4
      Q5 E 8.67, B 5.5, C 9.35

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    4. As mentioned above, I'm getting signal at pins 2 & 3, but nothing at pin 6

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    5. You've made an error somewhere. You can always take a couple of good photos of both sides of the board and post them up on the Debugging section of the forum. Then we can see if we cn spot what's wrong.

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    6. And swapped out the CA3080E for another of the same

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    7. Oh ok. Many thanks. I wasn't aware of the debugging section. Oops :-)

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  13. Turns out I must have bought from a bad batch of CA3080E's. I bought 2 and both were bad! It was only that I'd previously built the Keeley Comp and borrowed the LM3080 out of that, I discovered! Buyer and builder beware :-)

    BTW the forum is a great help for those in need of troubleshooting assistance!

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