Sunday, 9 February 2014

Barber Tone Pump

This is a layout for the original Tone Pump but I've changed it slightly so all 6 knobs are external instead of the Presence, Bass and Mids being internal trimmers which would be nice for quick control rather than having to open the box to tweak settings every time.

Info from Dave about his the newer 2 channel version which does have an altered EQ but still covers most bases about the original:

The Tone Pump EQ has a beautiful transparent presentation by which it takes on the characteristics of your guitar and amp without changing their tonal balance. The Tone Pump's gain structure allows flexibility by using two foot switches and separate volume and sustain (pump) controls for each channel.

Precision matched components-using proprietary specifications to ensure symmetrical clipping and reduced intermodulation distortion. Complex chords are heard with total definition and clarity at any level of overdrive.

True bypass switching with led indicator- this is achieved by using a high grade switch, and solid 20 gauge copper hookup wire is used between the jacks and switching to create a transparent bypass.

Two levels of overdrive- for distorted rhythm and a second mode for sustaining and thickening lead work.

Tonal balanced-The most important thing about the Tone Pump EQ is, your tonal balance of your guitar and amp are maintained. There is no funny midrange hump or loss of bottom end to SPOIL the sound of your guitar and amp that you have so carefully chosen.

New EQ controls- This great new set of features allows the user to use the new "deep clear" external bass control to properly match the bass response of the Tone Pump EQ to their guitar and amp, this eliminates any low end loss. With the addition of the new presence and midrange controls virtually any tonal response can be achieved, including mids that are reduced, flat or forward, you make the call!...a tweakers dream.

Volume knob response circuitry-numerous shades and textures at your fingertips just by adjusting your volume knob.

Barber adjustable phono style recovery stage- Most of Barber's op-amp based overdrive pedals use a cool old style phonograph circuit to recover the frequencies lost in the overdrive stage, this worked great for vinyl and now works great for guitar overdrive!


It should be quite easy to make a 2 channel version if you want, using a second stomp to switch between two separate Drive and Volume controls if someone wants an 8 knobber.






15 comments:

  1. Oops, the 330R from Presence 2 should go to vref not ground, layout updated

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  2. someone wanna clue me in to the "old style phono recovery stage" i see on all barber press babble? it doesn't look very special to me

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    1. Analogguru answered that question on freestompboxes: "To avoid overloading before cutting of a record the bass was attenuated and the treble was boosted. During playback the bass was boosted again to its original level and the treble attenuated too. This was achieved with a special EQ-amplifier. R1, R2, C1 and C2 in this schematic are responsible for that. Now if you make R1 and R2 adjustable then you´ve got it, what is described there."

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    2. Hi all.
      Anyone got a sub for the LM4558n chip? ALSO...(maybe related)...With all controls at -0- I turn the vol up with no 'noise' (or signal) and when I turn the the presence or bass, treb, or mid up I get a loud whistle...like a 10 foot tall whipper will...I ask cuz I think the JRC4558 or TL072 my not play well in this. Any ideas. I checked all connections, parts, joints..seem ok....ugh!!

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    3. Are you testing it in the box Jeff? I often get whistles when testing effects unboxed which are sorted out with the extra shielding you get when boxing. If it is boxed try to move the wires slighly because it may be that you're getting interference between some of them, particularly the input and output wires if they are close to each other. That's why some people get good results taming oscillation by using shielded input and output wires.

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    4. For alternatives, you could try any of the common dual opamps we use with these effects. NE5532, LM1458, LM358, NJM072, OP275, OPA2107, OPA2134, OPA2604, RC4558P, TLC272, AD712 etc etc. It's always nice to have a good selection, socket the IC and see which you think suits you best

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  3. In viewing the schematic I found, I have a question regarding the trace from the 3k to the Mid 3 lug, and Bass 1 connects to the 82n, or am I just reading this incorrectly (not clear on howe to read a diagonal arrow through the pot squiggle. Also, should Pres 2 be 2&3 (the diagonal arrow again)? Suffice to say, a bit dazed and confused.

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    1. Hi Pete, I just checked it out and you're right to be confused :o) The 3K should go from pin 6 to vref, not the junction of the 10n and 82n, so if you take the top lead of that resistor down to pin 6 that should correct it. I'll update the layout.

      The Presence pot is just being used as a variable resistor and so only needs 2 lugs connecting. Some people do link 2 to 3 but you don't have to for it to work correctly.

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    2. Thank you, works great with lots of tone range with the controls. Had to use a B50 for the Mids, but seems to be okay. While I don't consider myself on the level of other contributors here, I think this is verified. Is it possible for you to describe how to spilt the channels so it works similar to the "eq" version?

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    3. That's excellent, thanks for the heads up on the error and for verifying.
      For the 3 channel version you will need the stomp to switch between two separate Pump (drive) and two separate Volume controls. You may need a 4PDT stomp (1 pole for drive, 2 for volume and 1 for LED) but let me have a think about the best way of doing it and I'll post something on here.

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    4. Hi,

      i have done the 2-channel version with two 3pdt stompswitches, following the description from the Barber forum. You need two similar drive and volume pots. Connect the wires to the volumepot 1 as shown in the the layout. Then put a wire from lug 1 (pot 1) to lug 1 (pot 2). Do the same with lug 3.Link both pots with an outputwire from lug 2 to the channelstomper. Connect the first outputwire to the the pin 1 on the stomp. Output from pot 2 goes to the third pin. Second pin has to be connect with the output of the bypassswitch.
      Now link lug 2 and 3 from the first drive pot as shown in the layout. Link lug 3 of drivepot 2 with lug3 with drivepot 1. The Wire "dirve 1" goes to the pin5 of the channelstomp. Solder an 4k7 between lug 3 and 2 of drivepot 2. Lug 1 of drivepot 1 goes to pin 4 and Lug 1 of drivepot 2 goes to pin 6. Pin 7 and 8 can be used for an LED. I hope you can follow my description :-)

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  4. Good Morning to all, Since I'm a beginner in that world of effect pedals and electronics, and like seen elsewheream more at a stage of paint by numbers :^), From what I understand the layout is made for only one stomp switch, Am I Right ? Thanks for you help

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    1. Yes this was based on the schematic for the original Tone Pump as per Dave Barber's schematic. I haven't seen a schematic for the later two stomp version which is now also discontinued, but assume that the second stomp is just switching between the two separate volume and pump controls to give you the two "channels".

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  5. Hi,

    i am not sure, but according to the schematic I think that Bass 1 and Mid 3 should be swapped.

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