Saturday, 13 October 2012

Wampler Triple Wreck

Request.  I've done the main board and booster separately so that you could potentially put the main board in a 1590B or preferably a 125B (5 pots and a switch are totally do-able in a 125B).  If you're more sane than that and want to put this in a 1590BB then you can build the booster on the separate daughterboard or even experiment with the booster of your choice.  It has been mentioned that this really benefits from an 18V supply, so consider adding a little charge pump daughterboard in there too, with maybe a switch to select between 9V and 18V operation.  As noted by John, leave the booster at 9V all the time, 18V for main board only.

Info from Brian about his excellent original:

The Triple Wreck high gain distortion pedal... When this pedal was thought of, it was decided that we would take no prisoners, we would produce a pedal with so much gain it would wipe the floor of anything else

This pedal is probably one of the tightest, thickest highest gain distortions you have ever heard... Many people have told us that it sounds more like a 5150 amp to them than a distortion pedal, that may very well be - All we know is that Brian designed it to just to be an ass kicking distortion pedal, heavier than everything else, meaner than everything else, and it is.

With a solid three band EQ (total control allowing you to scoop out those mids without it peeking out the lows and highs like so many other pedals) you can emulate some of your favorite high gain tones, but as this pedal is so versatile, you can easily find a distinctive tone all of your own. There is so much control over the tone your distinctive sound is waiting for you. Believe it or not, even when the gain is backed off, this pedal is still useable, it still sounds great.

There are two distinct voices in this pedal, Hard and Brutal. The Hard gives you that warmer thump high gain where as the Brutal allows a little more sparkle to creep in, giving it that more recent, full audio spectrum feel.

So, we've already put in loads of gain, maybe more than you need, so let's stick in a boost switch. What...? Putting a boost switch on an already high gain pedal may sound crazy but you'll be amazed at how well it works. it gives you two options via the Boost Contour blend control. With the boost on and it dialed round to counter-clockwise, your distortion is multiplied and you have the solo sound you have always wanted. Pinch harmonics are just there, in places you've never found them before. With it dialed round to clockwise, your pedal turns into a fuzzy monster... Tweak the EQ and you can get tone that will remind you of the Smashing Pumpkins right round to some Pink Floyd kind of fuzzy solo tone. It's all there, waiting for you.

Think about your favorite high gain tone. Is it a high gain with the mids scooped out, or is it roll your hand across the knobs to get that in your face, fuzzy, brutal attitude-melting distortion. Whatever you are looking for, this is probably the only pedal on the market that can satisfy all of those options. This pedal should come with a public health warning.








Video of rudeez' build:




And as promised with these more complex circuits, here's the BOM from DIYLC2.

Type Value Qty
Capacitors 100n 2
Capacitors 100p 1
Capacitors 100u 1
Capacitors 10n 2
Capacitors 10u 1
Capacitors 1n 1
Capacitors 1u 7
Capacitors 220n 3
Capacitors 220p 3
Capacitors 2u2 1
Capacitors 330p 1
Capacitors 33n 1
Capacitors 470p 1
Capacitors 47n 4
Capacitors 4n7 2
Capacitors 560p 1
Resistors 100K 2
Resistors 100R 1
Resistors 10K 7
Resistors 1K 6
Resistors 1M 3
Resistors 33K 2
Resistors 470K 5
Resistors 47K 5
Resistors 47R 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 680K 1
Transistors 2N5089 1
IC1 TL074 1
IC2 TL072 1
Diodes 1N4148 5

229 comments:

  1. thanks for posting this one Mark!

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  2. sabro just got served with a C&D for using the names "wampler" and "triple wreck," FYI

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    Replies
    1. That's pretty sad, I would have thought Brian had better things to do with his time. Whether manufacturers like it or not, it is perfectly legal to mention brands and trademarks when it's for the purpose of identification or comparison. As per this article:

      http://corporate.findlaw.com/intellectual-property/ours-works-better-use-of-a-competitor-s-trademark-in-advertising.html

      And that's for a competitor advertising a rival product, whereas this is merely my own interpretation of the circuit in a layout that is my intellectual property. I may bring this up with Google who have plenty of experience now this kind of thing having owned youtube for 6 years, but I have no intention of removing any identification off my own back and will only do so if instructed to by Google.

      If a manufacturer can pick and choose when his trademarks are used online when it is clearly not a counterfeit product or even a legal clone, then what's next? C&D for bad reviews?

      Delete
    2. Oh and thanks for the heads up Nicholas

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    3. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    4. Because Volume 1 needs grounding. It simplifies things if I can use the boards where I can to connect certain things to ground if there is space, rather than have a longer list in the notes of things that need grounding.

      The Vintage/Modern switch is really simple so there isn't a lot that can go wrong, either the 4n7 cap is or isn't in circuit. If you're getting no difference, then you have either a faulty cap, faulty switch or there is a physical problem like a short or cold joint around that section of the board.

      Delete
    5. Thanks for the reply. I can see the simplicity and have other builds that use the same technique. I have the grounds from the main board, Boost, Charge Pump and led's all ganged onto the input jack star ground. I checked the cap, appears okay. I checked the board, no shorts that i can see. I checked the switch, it is working okay (SPDT), On-On. After putting in the case, the whole circuit was way low in sound, volume and effect. Took it apart and found a cold solder joint around one of the IC1 legs (don't remember which) and re-flowed the joint. Did not remove the chip, so i may have fried it. After that fix, the V/M switched stopped working. With both SW1 and SW2 disconnected, everything else works great, including the boost circuit and the 18v pump, although I get a voltage drop when i switch from 18v to 9v and then back. The Boost circuit is 9v only. Should I put a 47u cap across the 9v (+/-) jack to correct ?
      This is my fifth vero board build from your site. I wanted to commend you and say that I love this site and glad I found it. The builds are more challenging and rewarding than simple DIY pre-fabbed boards/projects. (RAH 2ea, Galileo, MXR+, Box of Rock.) Will be building MXR GT-OD w/ZW-44 Switch, and probably another Galileo since the first went to my son.

      Delete
  3. Wouldn't believe that of Brian... If he has initiated the C&D, then he's sliping in to a bad crowd - after all the excellent stuff he has wrote and shared over the years. After all, he built clones when he started out (just like everyone else)...

    Anyway. Consider both of the layouts verified. Took me a couple of hours, but it works perfectly. The main board i mean. The boost is either in error or it sounds just bad by it's own. I didn't try them in series yet though...

    Main board is pretty cool sounding distortion. Wide, clear and open, while still being truly high gain. Controls feel really solid. It is a good design. And i like it even more - now that i could build something Wampler that doesn't use six untrimmable J201s :)
    +m

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    Replies
    1. glad to hear that it's verified. BTW, his ecstacy doesn't use any JFets (J201's). it uses a JRC4580 and it's one of my favorite OD/distortions of all time.

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    2. Awesome, thanks Miro. Didn't expect this one to get verified so quickly! I'll look over the boost, but it'll be embarrassing if the main board worked first time and I'd screwed up the bloody boost! :o)

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    3. Wasn't it Mr Wampler who made wild threats to a pedal maker on eBay about getting his parents house taken away if said seller didn't remove the pedal from sale?

      If so, What a charming man and for that, my middle finger salutes you sir ;o)

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    4. I have heard about Mr. Fooltone and Mr. Retrocrap doing that, but not Brian.. Actually, if you check the FSB thread, the man himself is helping the people out reversing the Triple Wreck...

      That's why i find it hard to believe that Brian would do such a thing.. Maybe if his company's marketing squad is getting bigger and he has some idiots there... I still refuse to believe it. Please someone, prove me right.
      +m

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    5. I could may well be wrong Miro. It does sound more like a Mr fooltone thing. It probably was actually.

      Delete
  4. Oh. Forgot to mention. The switch doesn't work. It's ok when the wires are out of touch, but it kills the effect when tey are sorted. All the other controls are fine.
    +m

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    Replies
    1. Could be bad 4n7, as i soldered it to a wrong spot at first. I'll check that in the morning..
      +m

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    2. The Vintage/Modern switch is just adding 4n7 off the output for Volume 3 to ground and that's definitely right on the layout, so yes could be a dodgy cap mate. I've also been over the booster again and am fairly confident that is ok. If you get chance try it with the main board and see what you think. It's not setup in the pedal to be used on its own, so it may just have been designed to compliment that particular circuit.

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    3. and from what i understand, the boost/cream circuit is post volume pot, so the output from volume 2 goes to the additional boost on/off stomp switch, then to the boost circuit, back to the 2nd stomp switch,then to the output jack. at least that's where i think it goes.

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    4. I had a missing trace cut, it was marked on my board, but i still missed it last night. So the swtich too is ok.

      I swapped the boost board transistor for MPSA18, and it is still horrifying EQ filter with bass at CW and treble fizz at CCW.

      I did chain them, and it works there a lot better than by itself. I still think that it is more likely i'll box something like SHO after the main board than this. Well. Actually i think the main board is sufficient enough as it is - a monster distortion. Switchable 9V/18V would be nice addition though...

      So. Now it's really verified without any issues.
      +m

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  5. So glad to see this! I was just getting ready to build the Sabro layout. Had already cut out the vero ( I'll Use it for something else ). This will work out out better because I prefer the builds that include a boost, sans the boost. Just better to use one good boost for several effects instead of a boost in each one, you know?

    My question is, in the other layout, there are three 4580s used for the ICs. Will the gain be the same for the ones used here? I know I used the 4580s on the Riot and it was very high gain. Probably all the same - just curious. Can't wait to get this one built. Miro - you're a machine!!! Thanks Mark!

    I was a little bummed to see the C&D over on Sabro's site. Seemed a little heavy handed. He handled it with Grace though. Wriple Treck - heh...

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    Replies
    1. The distortion will be coming almost entirely from the diodes, so although opamp swaps could make subtle changes, I think it would mostly be lost in the diode clipping with something high gain like this.

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    2. does anyone know what chips Brain's used in the original?

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    3. i like the sound of 4580's. i guess brain does too. ;-)

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    4. Yes I like them too. Hmmmm wonder if they ever made a quad version! :o)
      You can't worry about the opamps though John, you sent me the schematic with TL07*s all over the place! :o)

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    5. well, i suppose that i can always just use this dual opamp adapter that i made. it allows any two dual 8 pin opamps to take the place of a 14 pin quad one like a TL074.

      http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/DualtoQuad_OpampAdapter-01.jpg

      http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/DualtoQuad_OpampAdapter-02.jpg

      Delete
  6. Well, after I wrote the question, I remembered that I used those 4580s in the Ecstasy that I built, and it wasn't very gainy, so I see what you're saying. Still learning....

    Thanks

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    Replies
    1. my ecstasy build has TONS of gain.

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    2. On the side note, John.. I recall you were thinking about building the paralooper? I was planning to do that too, but couldn't think any use for it. I'm ordering 10K dual pots on my next tayda set, so i could verify that Anderton STC.. Mark said he'll build the 808HW, so if you built the paralooper, then all of the backlog would be verified soon(ish)... :)

      On another side note, Mark.. Hit me with one more new layout today as i have nothing to do for the next 5 hours :) Elektra or Blue Clipper will do fine :D
      +m

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    3. i actually ended up making made my own vero for a 'paralooper' since i needed a phase reverse switch for my modded Guv'nor.

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  7. BTW, a MC33174N quad opamp is bi-polar and has specs similar to a JRC4580DD

    ReplyDelete
  8. John

    I just meant not as much gain as the Wreck. I guess I misspoke.

    So, can I actually put 2 4580s back to back where the TL074 is on the layout? I'd like to use them if possible since I have them on hand. I just use these SIP sockets for the above 8 pin ICs. Just put one on either side.
    http://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/sockets/sip-sockets.html

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. no, you can't just put them back to back. for one thing, the 4580's are 8 pin and a TL074 is a 14 pin. i also had to solder a bunch of jummpers to allow the pins to correspond to the correct pinouts.

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  9. so reading the FSB posts, most of the gutys say that the boost/cream circuit is before the distortion, whereas Sabro's vero says that it's after. does anyone know which one it really is?

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    Replies
    1. On my desk. Right next to the finished box :P
      http://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes/TrWr.JPG
      +m

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    2. Excellent, nice to see it fits ok in the smaller box. Is that a 125B?

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    3. No, it is 1590B. Took out some of the fun squeezing it in there, but i think it was still worth it :) No chance to fit a pump, boost, another switch or anything else.. Haven't done 5 knob + switch in a B before.. I usually want to leave room for a battery :)
      +m

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    4. after thinking about it, to me, it seems that the boost 'should' go before the distortion circuit. that way the volume controls the overall level (and noise) of the pedal would be controlled by the volume pot, but Sabro's vero says it's after and the FSB forum says it's before. i don't have access to an original pedal so i'm kinda baffled by where it goes in the circuit.

      Delete
    5. Man himself says: "All IC based except for the boost stage, which is a npn boost into a big muff style control (cream/crunch). The boost hit's the front end of the distortion circuit."

      So i'm pretty certain that it should be before the distortion...
      +m

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    6. that make total sense. thanks for that miro!

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    7. What enclosure is the actual triple wreck in? It looks a bit bigger than a 1590BB...

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    8. Oh, and where can I find a piece of vero board this big? It seems everything I'm finding is a few rows short.

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    9. the early triple wrecks (like in the video above) look like they have a longer, taller enclosure than a 1590BB, but the new ones are in a 1590BB.

      here's a couple of pics of my build:

      http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/3Wreck/3Wreckclone-01.jpg

      http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/3Wreck/3Wreckclone-02.jpg


      Marks' vero fits in a 1590BB and still has room for a 9V battery. I get my green vero's (which are HUGE and cut them down) from a local vendor.

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    10. Miro got it in a 1590B but without the booster. And you need some of this! :o)

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    11. That's huge! where can I get that?

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    12. The biggest one here, well worth the price as you can make a LOT of effects from one board:

      http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipment/Stripboard-29453

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    13. Hello John, how do you do the art on the top of the pedal. Its brilliant, perfect!

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    14. Heehee.. I think this would be a nice slot for an article :) Someone should write about different techniques that can be used for decorating the box. Like different paints, different decals and so on...
      +m

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    15. Agree Mirosol! it does takes dedication and effort to make a project work properly and it deserve to look cool. I use a sticker with photoshop and minwax polyurethane as Beavis Audio says, but i'm impress with John's work.

      Delete
    16. I just ordered some of those nice big slabs of vero!

      And here are the pedals it's going to go into, all painted with watercolors (or yellow spray paint) and a paint pen, then sprayed with clear enamel.

      https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54382528/DSC_1958.JPG

      Top: Wampler Pinnacle, Mad Prof. Fire Red Fuzz, MI Audio Crunch Box
      Bottom: Wampler Euphoria/Ecstasy, Mad Prof. Forest Green Comp.

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    17. Excellent job Mike, they look really good.

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    18. I do like that as well! Very cool!

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    19. Thanks! Wow John, yours looks amazing and super clean! do you leave the wires that go to the pots under the board long so it's easy to pull it out? Or are they short to save space?

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  10. Thanks John. I should have looked closer at that TL074 and looked at the pinout.

    Be placing an order for parts tonight...

    ReplyDelete
  11. About the BOM.. That seems to be a bug with V2, that it lists all the same components on it's own rows. Like, there is six rows saying 1K resistor with qty 1. That means 70 rows of BOM, while could (and should) be 32.

    I believe that can't be fixed by the app?.. And i'm not sure if that does help with sourcing, as it is really easy to count the rows wrong.. And still, the diodes are listed correclty :)

    Anyway. Here's "fixed" BOM:
    Type Value Qty
    Capacitors 100n 2
    Capacitors 100p 1
    Capacitors 100u 1
    Capacitors 10n 2
    Capacitors 10u 1
    Capacitors 1n 1
    Capacitors 1u 7
    Capacitors 220n 3
    Capacitors 220p 3
    Capacitors 2u2 1
    Capacitors 330p 1
    Capacitors 33n 1
    Capacitors 470p 1
    Capacitors 47n 4
    Capacitors 4n7 2
    Capacitors 560p 1
    Resistors 100K 2
    Resistors 100R 1
    Resistors 10K 7
    Resistors 1K 6
    Resistors 1M 3
    Resistors 33K 2
    Resistors 470K 5
    Resistors 47K 5
    Resistors 47R 1
    Resistors 4K7 1
    Resistors 680K 1
    Transistors 2N5089 1
    IC1 TL074 1
    IC2 TL072 1
    Diodes 1N4148 5

    +m

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This list seems to be the same as the one at the top of the page. Was the issue corrected?

      I'm kinda bummed that I didn't find this sooner because I'm already about to assemble the pinnacle. Oh well, never can have too many....

      Delete
    2. I used Miro's list to correct the BOM in the main post

      Delete
  12. just finished my triple wreck, complete with the boost/cream circuit. it sounds exactly like the wampcat youtube videos (c with a crazy amount of available distortion on tap). i'm running three JRC4580's in mine, but since i made the TL074/dual opamp adapter, i can also try three TL072's, although i'm really happy with it with the 4580's. i'll mount it in an enclosure tomorrow. one thing that i might mention is that if you want to install a charge pump and run it on 18V, just use the 9V tap on the charge pump for the boost circuit, otherwise the 18V will render the boost circuit useless since the 2n5089 will not be biased properly. thanks again Mark for posting it.

    ReplyDelete
  13. a weird thing that i just discovered. i think that the boost circuit actually sounds better and has more sustain (but less gain) with the 2N5089 turned 180 degrees! what's up with that?

    ReplyDelete
  14. i tried it with three TL072's and it still sounds great, only a little brighter and a bit less smooth, and right now, i think i like an MPSA18 for the transistor in the boost circuit better than the 2N5089.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Hi, I'm a total n00b to circuit design but know enough to of put together a couple of the simpler designs from this site (HUGE thanks for posting all this up BTW). Anyway, my quesiton is: if I would like to house the main board and boost together, how does the wiring work out - I can't quite make it all work in my head, does the output of the boost end up going to the input of the main board or am I way off?! Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to give.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. the booster is wired basically like a pedal within the pedal, and it goes in front of the distortion circuit. you wire the main bypass to the input jack, then wire the additional stomp switch so that the boost precedes the the distortion circuit (the main board) or is bypassed and the distortion is running by itself.

      Delete
    2. Like this:
      http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J3EhMIZQLck/UH6a8ZnzSFI/AAAAAAAADHE/ewTfTXuvTYA/s1600/!Offboard+Wiring+with+switchable+pre-effect+booster.png

      Delete
    3. Wow, perfect, thank you both for taking the time to reply :D

      Delete
  16. BTW, i just finished mounting my 3 wreck in its enclosure. before anyone gets too upset about my using the pedal's original name, i built it just for myself, and have no intention of selling my clones of pedals. the ONLY reason that i use the original names on most of my clones is so i can keep track of exactly what they are (since i've built so many of them) and would never represent them to be anything other than clones.

    here's a couple of pics of my 3 wreck:

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/3Wreck/3Wreckclone-01.jpg

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/3Wreck/3Wreckclone-02.jpg


    i even left room for a 9V battery and clip should i decide to run it that way. ;-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ha ha, I wondered whether you were going to blur the name out when you posted! :o) Great job as usual John.

      Delete
    2. Your paint & sticker works are incredible, John. You could earn a fortune selling these stickers! (I would be your first client, believe me :)

      Delete
  17. since this pedal has way more than enough dirt/distortion on tap, i just installed some sockets for two of the 4148's (D1 &D2)and ran it with two 3mm red leds in place of them. for my purposes, i find it to be WAY more usable throughout the entire gain range now, and it's still capable of having more dirt than i'd ever need. i'm really lovin' this thing!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Very useful info, thanks for that John. I reckon in a 1590BB there's room for some diode switching in here, or maybe even a little diode daughter board like this so you can mix different diodes in different directions if you want to:
      http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/Layouts/Perf/DiodeSwitcher.png
      That should give lots of options if swapping those diodes seems to make a big difference.

      Delete
    2. yep, there's room in there for a small daughter board. i dig it with the leds but it might also be cool with two mosfet transistors used as clipping diodes.

      Delete
    3. john, can I ask you where do you buy these green stripboard????

      Delete
    4. John, great call with the Red LED's for Bass players. I wasn't too fussed with the gain Charector until I swapped out those two 4148's. It was a little uninteresting and sounded just like a lot of other pedals. With the new LED's, the break up is far more interesting now!

      Delete
    5. I swapped out the Boost for a Super Hard on too :D

      Delete
  18. john/miro.. how
    much noise do you get
    with your WTW when the
    gain pot is near
    maximum?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. not very much, especially considering the amount of distortion, and there's no way that i'd ever run the the gain near the max.

      Delete
    2. I can say the same thing...
      +m

      Delete
  19. BTW, here's a quick (and sloppy) clip of my triple wreck using my P bass thru my SVT7pro 2/15 cab....just running it thru different amounts of drive and eq:

    http://soundcloud.com/johnk_10/triplewreck

    ReplyDelete
  20. For all the guys that have completed this, do you get some high pitched oscillation when the volume is beyond 3/4 of the way turned up (It sort of reminds me of the oscillation from the madbeans boneyard).
    Thats what Im getting and was wondering if it would help to use a lower resistance pot?

    BTW, great project and great website!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    2. nope. no oscillation at all, even with every control dimed.

      Delete
  21. Also, whats the LED+ for, is it just an alternative to having the bypass led wired to the 3PDT?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. the led+ is for the on/off led instead of having to wire one in series with on of the led leads.

      Delete
  22. Hi,

    First thing I should say is a massive thanks for ALL the layouts you've kindly shared.

    It's just a quick question really, I built the charge pump daughter board you linked to - I am not sure if it is needed or not but the 7660s datasheet indicates that Pin 5 should be grounded. I added the jumper to mine and all is OK. Just thought I'd point it out.

    Thanks again for all the layouts, you are both a generous and mad stripboard genius!

    Thanks,

    Ian

    ReplyDelete
  23. Mike Stahl wrote:
    "Wow John, yours looks amazing and super clean! do you leave the wires that go to the pots under the board long so it's easy to pull it out? Or are they short to save space?"

    thanks. i leave them just long enough to be able to lift the board up if i ever need to.

    ReplyDelete
  24. Finally toaday arrived the components from Tayda that I did need to finish the circuit. Just needed the pots and 2 values of caps. The vero was populated more than a week ago, so in a matter of minutes, it was finished. Pluged it and obtained a extremely low output. Replaced the TL072, and the Triple Wreck started to roar (once again a faulty component of my local store....).

    I've tried many high gain effects, I've seen many demos of this pedal but.... what you get when finally plug this beast is hard to believe or even imagine. Never had listened a so high gain distortion, it's really brutal! Distortus Maximus seems a soft Tube Screamer if compared.

    I'll try to finish it with the cream booster this weekend, can't wait to finish and enjoy it.

    Really shocked!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well, pedal finished.

      Effect itself is brutal, love it! Boost is..... strange... half a fuzz (like it), half a bassy boost. Not an usual control, don't like it very much, but is different to the usual boosts you find everywhere.

      I think this is by far the most complicated effect that I've built. Six pots, 74 components and two stompswitches has been too much. I'll stop building effects for a couple of weeks or a month, it's been intense, and lately, I build faster than I can try and enjoy, so it's time to have a rest and enjoy all the units I built in the past 6 months.

      As always, a pic for your collection:

      http://imageshack.us/a/img832/1276/triplefinished.jpg

      Next stop: Drag'n'Fly or Meathead de Luxe (maybe both) but there will be mid-end December then :P

      By the way Mark, than you once again for your great work and sharing with all of us this incredible web!

      Delete
  25. OK. So I've built about 25 pedals from these layouts ( THANK YOU MARK!!! ). Just wanted to add my comment about this pedal to the others here. This pedal has some serious bottom end! This is the first high gainer that I have built that really makes anything I play it through sound like a 4x12 cab. Ton of gain - I actually turn the gain back on this pedal to get it where I want it ( I'm usually cranking the gain knob on the others ).

    Build. This. Pedal.

    ReplyDelete
  26. Heres a few pics of my efforts. Its called the screaming milan 2 after my 2 year old son Milan who is going through the 'terrible 2's tantrum phase'!

    http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/9753/img4178m.jpg
    http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/9997/img4179f.jpg
    http://imageshack.us/a/img194/8517/img4171on.jpg

    (Yes, I know its an absolute tangle of wires inside)

    Very high gain but not sure what I think of the boost. Also, I find that turning the mids below 9 o'clock makes the sound go really muffled and bassy. Still, Its a keeper, though I prefer the Dr Boogie (which I have made as the screaming Milan 1)

    http://imageshack.us/a/img812/2849/img4070b.jpg
    http://imageshack.us/a/img15/7647/img4073pf.jpg

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Excellent jobs, thanks for the pics. My son is still going through the terrible 2's, and he's 10. :o)

      Delete
    2. Nice job!. For what I see, the "terrible 2" is an international issue. Still 6 months until he turns 3 :)

      Delete
    3. Very nice looking pedal. This is probably my favourite build to-date i love this pedal.

      http://ubuntuone.com/3eoVZ62UuWCOLeUJlOy2lW
      http://ubuntuone.com/0Q950jGkUmWpHh8hRQ4Aaq

      "terrible 2's" mine are 18 and 24 and still have tantrums !!!

      Delete
    4. Those type jacks are isolated from the enclosure correct? If so, how do you ground the enclosure?

      Delete
  27. Just finished building this pedal. Very Impressed. All the Brian Wampler Pedals I have build from this site have been Very Worth Building and Great. Thanks once again Mark & Miro.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nice on Jon, always great to see successful builds, especially the more complicated ones

      Delete
  28. HI
    There is problem with using pots Lin, rather than log for volume, gain and mids?
    Regards

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nah it won't be a problem but it changes the way the knob reacts to you turning it. Usually it's better to use the correct ones but if it's not a big issue then you can use different tapers. I do it all the time!

      Delete
    2. Yup. Geiri is right. "Wrong" taper affects only the feel of the turn..
      +m

      Delete
  29. Having an issue with my build. It works great but when I was adjusting to my liking I noticed that if I tapped on the pedal it would come through the amplifier. Like it is a giant pickup. Any suggestions?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Don't tap on the pedal :)

      Check all your ground soldering and that the case it being grounded through the input sleeve. Just use your multimeter to make sure you're getting continuity

      Delete
    2. I had a feeling you would say don't tap on it. I checked that already and everything seems fine in that aspect. Not only could you hear that but also the spring of the 3pdt as you press on it.

      Delete
    3. If the case is amplifying mechanical contact then something definitely isn't working as it should, the case should be a big shield. Did you test the board before you boxed it?

      Delete
    4. No and how would I go about doing this for future reference

      Delete
    5. Terminal block connecting board input and output wires to sockets. It's good to test before you box to confirm everything works as it should. If it was ok, and then sounded clangy when you boxed it then it points to your installation in some way. If it was like that before you boxed it then it tells you to look elsewhere at the board itself.

      Delete
    6. That makes sense. I will grab some terminal blocks from work Monday.

      Delete
  30. so this is my build and demo of this one! also put in a voltage doubler so it runs on 18V, the mainboard only that is.
    http://instagram.com/p/XrzDvfRWD2/
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUgfZ3WAi-M

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Very cool mate, I'll add it to the post

      Delete
  31. Just finished this today, absolutely crushing distortion, love it! Thanks again to Mark / Miro!

    ReplyDelete
  32. Mark, could you please post a link to the schematic ?
    I finished the board, wired it without the 3pdt and have no sound. I triple checked everything, obviously i missed something (and yes the ICs are in :D)
    I started to probe it, from the input i have sound until IC1 pin 5 then nothing, the schematic would really help
    Thanks !

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Got it to work, a misplaced resistor leg
      Sounds very nice, but will box it without the boost, i don't see the need. OTOH i will probably add the voltage doubler

      Delete
  33. I have a lot of spare 100k Lin pots and I thought this was a good pedal to use them. Will I "feel" much difference compared to the logaritmic pots that were supposed to be used?

    ReplyDelete
  34. What an amazing pedal! Just finished this one up for a buddy:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3363612/Gitarren-Forum/DSC01829.JPG

    Sounds crushing with my 7 string.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nice one, thanks for the pic Chris

      Delete
  35. does have anyone the triple wreck "modern rectifier distortion version" which have 3way switch (hard,voicing, and brutal) mode

    ReplyDelete
  36. does the boost part go before or after the od?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. as most agreed here if you read above, it goes before ;)

      Delete
    2. Yep missed it, but figured it out.

      I was confused because i used to prefer boosts after od-s in general, and all before a compressor, so that i can have clean-clean boost- od-and boost od, at the same levels ;)

      Delete
  37. Hello and thank you for this really amazing pedal!
    Just built it and sounds awesome, but whenever i turn on the boost i get some "noise?" "digital sound around 2kHz?" i can't really describe how it sounds... no matter where the cream pot position is, it's just constant. could it be a faulty 5089 or does it sound like another of the few components could be bad? thank you

    ReplyDelete
  38. Hey guys!! I've got some BRUTAL sounds coming from this beast but I can't shake the feeling that I'm missing something! I got the circuit going after fixing a few mistakes. A big improvement came with the addition of the charge pump. I'm about 90% happy with it. The controls are bugging me though! Firstly this thing has a sh*tload of bass! But when backing off on the mids it gets really woofy and wooly, like it's taking a bit of the treble with it or something. Are the controls normally like this? I subbed a 100k log for the Rev log bass pot, seeing as I didn't have one. I'll check my board over(again!!!) to see if ther's still something a-miss.

    Cheers Thommo.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. yes, it does have a TON of bass. I run my bass control at 9 o'clock or less, and never cut the mids.

      Delete
    2. Hey John, I did a bit more tweaking and found a lot of tones I loved. I think the tone pots might just have a lot more range than than what I'm probably used to. I liked the mids up between 12 & 3. I'm certain my board an all are correct, so I'm gonna call it done! How do you like it with the boost on?

      Delete
    3. Well, I just couldn't leave this one alone and just happen to find that, for the 1n(102) on the right of the TL072 I had grabbed a 100p(101) instead!! Putting in the correct value has brought this thing roaring out of disappointment-land and into the land of face melting masterpieces! Sounds just like the video! Apart from the fact that I don't have the skills to shred it like Burgs!!!! Happy days!!!

      Delete
    4. Usual thing :P I nearly threw to the bin the Carl Martin Plaxitone board just a minute before I realized that I had soldered a 47k resistor in a critical place (gain stage) where a 47r should be :P

      Enjoy your TW, is one of the best high gain distorions you can get in the market.

      BR

      Delete
  39. Hi guys, I'm french so sorry for my poor English !
    Everything on my build works perfectly except the level pot !
    When the pot is on max the volume is just too low :((
    And the sound is not as "clean" that it should be (is it clear ?? ;-))
    Some ideas ?

    Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. this pedal doesn't have a low output issue so there's an error in your build somewhere.

      Delete
  40. I tried several layouts here, and its result is extraordinary,,, thank you Ivlark & mirosol .. you are incredible

    ReplyDelete
  41. I just started building this one up today, and I'm almost done populating the circuit board...the only problem is that I ordered a bunch of 1uf electrolytic caps, not film!!

    Can I use these polarized 1uf electrolytics for the 1uf caps on the layout, or will I screw everything up if I don't get the polarity correct?

    Thanks!

    Jacob

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Too many of them to check for orientation quickly. If placed the wrong way, those caps will surely die a lot sooner than they are supposed to. Possibly even in minutes of use.

      I'd recommend getting non-polar ones for this. Multilayer ceramics are cheap and good.
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/Multilayer-ceramic-capacitors-capacitor-1uF-1000nF-105-50V-Y5V-100PCS-/251013488438
      +m

      Delete
    2. Right on man, thanks for the information!

      How would I go about checking the orientation myself? I figure that's probably a good skill to have for any pedal!

      Delete
    3. You would need to compare the layout to the schematic and determine which side has higher voltage. I still believe you're better off by waiting for the new caps :)
      +m

      Delete
    4. Yeah...you talked me into it! I don't wanna screw this pedal up!

      Delete
    5. OK...got ahold of some 1uf's from a local shop (these are some pretty big caps!). Hooked up input, volume, gain and output to check if it's working. Running into some problems here...when I crank the gain and the volume, I get very low volume. When I touch one of the leads from the 1uf caps the sound sometimes gets super loud!

      I can't figure out what's going on here...do I need to have all of the other pots connected for this to work properly?

      Delete
  42. the BOM list is without 2k2 resistor

    ReplyDelete
  43. Hi all. To build this w/o the boost do I just build the main board and hook it up
    like usual?

    ReplyDelete
  44. you mean disregard the 2k2 hooked to the LED+ strip on the main board then build as usual
    with resistor in line with 9v jack/LED. no boost

    ReplyDelete
  45. I've built it without the boost part, and I was disappointed at first, comparing it with a toneczar openhaus, but I learn to like it!

    To my ears and for the settings I'm using I find no interest in powering it with an 18V supply (I even built a switchable 9V/18V supply to compare on the fly). I've used an adaptor to be able to compare ICs and I'm using 4580DDs.

    What I think is lacking is more control over the Mids. I'd love to mod it with a switch with selectable frequencies or even better a continuous pot... any clue on where to start to do this? Around those 33k resistors and 47 and 100n caps on the top of the board?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes they're the components that set the frequency of the mids pot, so I'd suggest socketing them and swapping a few values and seeing what works best for you

      Delete
    2. OK, thanks! I have nothing against experimenting, but I'd like to understand what's going on, if it's a standard filter design, etc... would you have a suggestion for a link to an explanation?

      Delete
    3. It's a band pass filter. A high pass filter cutting low end, followed by low pass filter cutting top end, which ends up with a boost in the mid frequencies that you can determine by the low and high frequencies the two filters are attenuating.

      Just do a search for active band pass filter and I'm sure you'll find lots of info.

      Delete
  46. Hello,
    i need your help !!! i finished my board and i have no sound(it is low REALLY low and sh*ty)
    i am tracing the signal from the input and everything its ok until i reach the 1n cap right of the tl072. the upper leg has good signal. the other one has no signal. i have spent about 4 hours trying to fix it. do u have any idea what to look for?
    thank you !!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. First port of call always, post your voltages. Nothing gives a better clue than that

      Delete
  47. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 1 - 4.25
      2 - 4.25
      3 - 2.88
      4 - 8.48
      5 - 2.88
      6 - 4.25
      7 - 4.25
      8 - 4.25
      9 - 4.25
      10 - 4.23
      11 - 0
      12 - 4.23
      13 - 4.26
      14 - 4.26

      Delete
    2. 1- 4.26
      2- 4.26
      3- 2.90
      4- 0
      5- 4.23
      6- 4.25
      7- 4.25
      8- 8.49


      Any thoughts?

      Delete
    3. also i forgot to mention that i am buliding the main board only. not the boost.

      Delete
    4. Your voltages look pretty good, which point more towards a faulty component or bad connection somewhere. Are you getting nothing at all out of the pedal? Are you testing it with a stomp switch in place? Is so are you sure the switch is ok? If so how is the switch wired?

      Delete
    5. its wired on a 3dpt. the switch i working good(tested) i hear the effect too low if i turn the amps vol a lot.. ( its way below the unity vol). the 3dpt is wired as u suggest on offboard wiring.
      i have not yet wired the V/M switch and the led.
      i dont how to identify a faulty cap.
      so until now i know with tracing the signal from input i know that:
      i have good signal from the outs of tl074
      i have good signal fron the left out of tl072
      and the signal stops to the 1n cap right of ic2 if i lift the leg that goes to 6 of ic2 i have good signal on both legs of the cap.
      when i place it again to the 6 of ic2 then the signal stops. on the upper leg of cap its good. on the other that connects with the ic just stops. and i dont get any sound from tl072 right out.
      I want to cry!!!!

      Delete
    6. Well you should definitely have something at pin 6, that's where the signal goes after the mids control. Check the components immediately around, and so the two 33K resistors, the 47n cap and the mids pot. If you're getting signal at both ends when you disconnect the 1n from pin 6 then something there must be pulling it down. It could be one of the surrounding components, a bad connection, unwanted bridge or the IC (or even socket if you're using one) could always be damaged. At the end of the day, if that's where you're losing signal, that's definitely the problem area and there aren't many components and connections to check around there.

      Delete
    7. i dont know if this is a point but i am gonna say it.
      i pluged a guitar and this board gave me a tease.. from pin 3 of gain pot a jumper to pin 3 of volume pot it gives good sound. the same from from bass, mid, treble all of them have sound with their characteristics..

      the ic socket is good ( i tested it by touching my multimeter from top touching the pins of ic and the bottom on the rows)
      the resistors are good. now im gonna remove the 47n cap and place another one just to see if anything happens. if not i am at dead end again.. ( i hope the final sound of this deserve all this troubleshooting)

      Delete
    8. new capacitor. new ic. same problem. :(

      Delete
    9. would be a solve if i would make a daughter board? taking the signal from 1n cap and place it on the daughter with an extra tl072 and the rest of the schematic? also a jumper from pin5 of the extra ic to the upper double link of the main board

      Delete
  48. I built this have it working but something very strange going on.running at 9volts it sounds louder then when I use the voltage doubler that ya show to use for this.the problem im having is it just isn,t very loud at all.my bypass sound is louder then the circuit even when I have the circuit all the way up to max.here is my voltages at 9volt
    TL072
    1=4.87 5=4.94
    2=4.88 6=4.95
    3=4.71 7=4.91
    4=0 8=9.84

    TL074
    1=4.95 14=5.90
    2=4.95 13=4.95
    3=4.73 12=4.94
    4=9.84 11=0
    5=4.73 10=4.94
    6=4.95 9=4.95
    7=4.95 8=4.95

    I guess these are right because the circuit works,but wanted to see if anyone els has anything different that may explain why im getting such low volume output.hope someone can help? I have already checked all the normal suspects like bridge solder joints or shorts and all pots are working normal.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes your voltages look ok, so that vast majority of the time it's down to a bad connection somewhere. Check over everything and re-flow your soldering if necessary. Check for poor connections offboard too.

      Delete
    2. Mark, but if I have 8,5 circa in every pin and 6 in pin 5...what does it mean???? I change 3 TL074 and re-soldered every pin!!!! :(

      Delete
    3. and I have the signal in the pin 5 and it doesn't exit form the ic................

      Delete
    4. voltages are these:
      1 - 8,44
      2 - 7,67
      3 - 6,07
      4 - 8,89
      5 - 6,08
      6 - 8,42
      7 - 8,43
      8 - 8,43
      9 - 5,74
      10 - 8,90
      11 - 8,98
      12 - 8,91
      13 - 8,06
      14 - 8,42

      and signal enters in the pin 5 but doesn't go out form ic....

      Delete
    5. Well you definitely shouldn't have anything like 8.5V on those pins unless you're using 18V. But pin 9 is the one that intrigues me the most, you're getting 5.74V at a ground connection, and if you don't have it properly grounded so you're getting 0V at those positions then I can imagine other voltages in the pedal being off. Did you do the double link at pin 9? What voltage are you getting at pin 4 of IC2?

      Delete
    6. thanks Mark!!!! :D Circuit is ok, it was my tester that is got crazy!!!!!
      now it's ok, and circuit works perfectly!!!
      thanks again!

      Delete
  49. here's a pic of my build:
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/118474006@N06/14187661163/

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nice job, thanks for the pic

      Delete
    2. well, you haven't seen the inside... :D

      I have a request: I'd like that johnk stopped posting pictures of the inside of his builds, when seeing them, I always tell myself "ah! an easy one, plenty of room" and I always end up scratching my head to put everything inside...

      Delete
  50. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  51. Hello again :)
    i'm making a compact PCB for this beast and it's working fine, but is there a schematic for the booster section? i tried to make one from the vero but i guess i've messed up somewhere, it works but squeals on high gain :D so is there one to check against my layout? thank you mark!! :)

    ReplyDelete
  52. Hi there. Im having an issue with this build. The effect works perfectly. I can hear the distortion, all the pots are working correctly including the volume pot and the spst switch. My problem is that I have a very low output volume and a loud hum. I have checked my solder work, reflowed and checked for bridges. I have changed some caps and IC's. sound changes when I change IC's which is normal but same problem persists with the loud hum and low volume.. im stumped and don't know what to check. and its hard because everything is working. Its as if its a grounding issue but have no clue where to check or what to replace. Any suggestions???? Man I need to get this one working.....

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. First thing always with an problem build, we need voltages of all the IC pins. That will at least let us know if they are all working as intended.

      To check ground you need to check continuity between all points of ground on the board, and offboard. Follow the links from the ground rail to see which points on the board need to be grounded.

      Delete
  53. Will send you my voltages shortly.. Appreciate your help man...

    ReplyDelete
  54. Voltages are as follows:

    TL072

    1. 2.89
    2. 2.88
    3. 2.77
    4. 0
    5. 2.87
    6. 6.44
    7. 6.88
    8. 5.78

    TL074

    1. 2.94
    2. 2.93
    3. 2.81
    4. 7.01
    5. 2.81
    6. 2.94
    7. 2.94
    8. 2.93
    9. 2.93
    10. 2.94
    11. 0
    12. 2.90
    13. 2.89
    14. 2.90

    Hope thats good

    ReplyDelete
  55. Do you have numbered the ics as it should?, it's

    1-8
    2-7
    3-6
    4-5

    and

    1-14
    2-13
    3-12
    4-11
    5-10
    6-9
    7-8
    ?

    Anyway, your voltages are quite low, on pin 8 of the double one and 4 of the quad you should get 9v or slightly more, and the higher measure you have on both ics is 7v, 2 under mimimum.

    So, to begin with, you have a problem in the +9v rails, check these rows first.

    J.

    ReplyDelete
  56. Thanks checking them now. And yes my numbering is correct

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Definitely something wrong with your links, or the soldering on them then. Pin 8 of the TL072 and pin 4 of the TL074 are both physically connected with links and so should be the same voltage. If they aren't then something has to be wrong with the links.

      Also are you testing with an older battery or something? Even 7V is lower than I would expect after a 47R current limiting resistor if you had a full 9V at the source.

      Delete
    2. Yeah, agree with Mark, if the numbering is correct, tl074 pin 8 and tl074 pin4 should read the same, and is not the case.

      Something (solder dridge, non correct location of a component, bad solder...) is droping voltage to an unwanted place.

      The +9v before and after the 47r, and both links to tl074 pin8 and tl074 pin 4, are the first place to look at.

      J

      Delete
  57. Im using a power supply with 8.7v at source. Using beavis board to test my circuit.

    ReplyDelete
  58. Man u boys are machines.. Link to pin 8 of TL072 is connected to pin 7 instead. Will fix and report back

    ReplyDelete
  59. Thanks guys.. Pedal started up and it roars!! Cheers man!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Niced to be of help, enjoy it!

      Now you can see how things can be different when the builder shows some more iniformation besides "it doesn't work". Just knowing the voltages has pointed to the problem and has been solved in a matter of minutes.

      That's the way i like these things!

      You have successfully finished a build that we can call medium - difficult, so you can be proud of it!

      J.

      Delete
  60. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  61. I built this without the boost and powered at 9V, and the volume is less than unity. Is this normal?

    ReplyDelete
  62. Are those tantalum 1uF's? Can I just swap them for mylar?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sure, if you can fit them! You could also use electrolytics but you'd need to work out the polarity in relation to the schematic.

      Delete
    2. as far as i know none of the layouts are drawn with tantalum caps. typically the reds are poly/mylar, the yellow ceramics, and the circular ones are electrolyics. 1uF poly will fit no problem, and if space is tight get some multilayer ceramics and they'll fit no problem and have no issues.

      personally i wold avoid tantalum. they're polarize, and are very finiky, not to mention expensive as hell.

      Delete
    3. Yeah tantalum is really only useful for tight builds. Usually it's good to keep them out of the audio signal chain because apparently they are a bit rough sounding but eh, that's nerd talk and I AIN'T A GODDANG NERD.

      Delete
    4. Got it. Thanks! In our area it's very difficult to get the right components so, I'm really making sure of all of them first. :) Plus, I'm a newbie, this is just my second build. ( T_T, i know). :)
      Anyway, thanks.

      Delete
    5. Yeah most of the red blob capacitors are of the box capacitor or greenie/mylar style and generally in the 1nF to 1uF range. Sometimes you see them up to 2.2uF.

      Delete
    6. So, all of the electronics stores here in our area don't have the 1uF mylar/poly. So I bought electrolytics. Negative should eventually go to ground, right?

      Delete
    7. It's harder than I thought. LOL Maybe I'll just search in far places for that 1uF mylar. Whew.

      Delete
    8. Lol. Not always, it depends on what the cap is doing in the circuit. That's a whole bother discussion we can have. Long story short it depends on what the cap is doing in the circuit, and to polarity (npn or pnp) that will determine the orientation of the electrolytic cap.

      As far as sourcing parts get as much as you can online. It's much cheaper and if you plan ahead you have buy stuff in higher amounts and build multiple effects with less downtime. I suggest looking in the forum at the deals thread. There are a few posts to getting some common parts cheap. For instance, there's a seller on eBay that sells the red panasonic poly caps, like what's pictured, in a set with multiple values for around $18 for like 120 caps, it's worth picking up a few sets. There's also links for resistor packs, and multilayer ceramic cap sets which are fatastic for tight spaces and go up to 10uF without the microphonic issue with high value traditional ceramic caps.

      If you need any help just let me know and I'll do what I can and point you in the right direction. Side not, make sure you checkout the forum. There's tons of information and resources, plus that's where a lot of us hang around and you'll get the most help.

      Also, this effect is a little daunting for a second build, IMHO, with all the extra pots and switches. It might be smart to knock off a few other builds on your list that are simpler just to get more experience. If it doesn't work right it can be a nightmare to troubleshoot. But, if you need help we're still here for you man.

      Good luck.

      Delete
    9. Yep, what Zach said. The internet is your friend in this case. Prices in stores are prohibitive if you're tinkering and want to try different things, which is what most people in the DIY community wanna do! So yep, get on eBay or Tayda and get a bunch of caps and resistors and all the other assorted things you need to get yourself going.

      And yes, for an early build this is a big one. Start smaller tbqh.

      Ooooh and build one of the test boxes on this site, they are a godsend.

      Delete
    10. one thing about tayda caps. their poly's are good, but they're are the green kind. only issue with them is that as the caps increase in value their size gets massive. i have a bunch and still use them from time to time, and for some odd values, but the red panasonics are so small that i switched over as soon as i got my first set.

      btw, nothing wrong with greenies.

      Delete
    11. Yeh gotta get into those box caps if you can.

      Delete
    12. Wow. Thanks for all the replies, guys. I forgot that I already built another pedal, so that makes this my third build. But I have a little experience in other kinds of circuits, so I think I'm still fine. LOL

      Regarding the components stuff, my friends discouraged me from buying online from other countries. I attempted to buy from Tayda, but a friend told me that shipping (in PhP) is expensive. Aside from the shipping fee, they said there'll be more hassle for me caused by our Bureau of Customs. Everything shipped from other countries will undergo some processes there before actual delivery (also, they say some corruption is involved, so there will be a lot more hassle and expense for me and everyone who tries to buy online :( ).
      I'm still looking for other alternatives in buying online. Also, I'm on the search for a really good electronics store here in our country.

      Again, thank you VERY MUCH for all your help. :D

      Delete
    13. This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
    14. So, I found out that there are bipolar electrolytic capacitors. I bought a bunch of 1u's. Can I use them?

      Delete
  63. Would it be possible to to use .1 caps in place of the 1uf?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. There is a big difference between .1uF and 1 uF, so stick to 1uF.

      Delete
    2. yes. 1uF is the same as 1000nF, and .1uF is the same as 100nF.

      Delete
  64. How does this compare sound wise with the sabrotone layout with the three jrc4580 ICs?

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. the difference between the two is how the boost is wired. in the sabrotone layout it comes after the distortion, in the one above it comes before. it was found that the boost should before the distortion, so if you want yours to sound like the original, make this this one, so when the boost is engaged it will drive the distortion harder. in the sabrotone when the boost is engaged you boost the distorted effect.

      Delete
  65. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  66. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete